![]() I’ve mapped out your options based on the different combinations If your dog is aggressive or highly fearful of other dogs, consider muzzling your dog and carrying some of the tools described below. I walk with my treat pouch, and I tuck Marsh Dog treats into my running belt. Some solutions rely on you having treats, so consider treats part of your bare-bones dog-walking kit (like poop bags and a leash). You and your dog are walking or jogging and are charged by a dog. Let’s be honest, this is probably the most common scenario: What to Do if You’re Unprepared and A Dog Charges You In all scenarios, if you can simply cross the street,ĭuck behind a gate, or double back the way you came, do so. Handle each situation may differ from how someone with a basically friendly dog If your dog isn’t copasetic with other dogs, your steps to Or your dog might be seriously aggressive to other dogs, in which case that bluff charge might as well be a declaration of war. Your dog might be terrified of other dogs, in which case that bouncy teenager barreling up to say hi might as well be Godzilla. You might have a different dog at the other end of your leash. I still will take steps to protect Barley (so he doesn’t feel the need to step in on his own), but it’s not likely that he’s going to be the problem here. I know this about him, so I know that even a rude, bouncy approach or a bluff charge isn’t likely to be a big deal. He’s been in several scuffles and arguments with other dogs, but he’s never been the instigator and he’s never even torn another dog’s ear. ![]() My dog Barley isn’t super friendly to other dogs, but he’s also certainly not aggressive. Once you have an idea of what the dog’s intentions may be, it’s also important to keep your own dog in mind. His stillness is even scarier! I’m glad he’s on a chain. This dog’s direct stare, closed mouth, hard eyes, forward ears, and forward weight all tell me he’s serious. I have seen very few of these dogs in my life, but they can be truly scary. These dogs might also bark, but it’s often a deeper, less staccato bark than the Blustery Bluffer. That dog is potentially quite serious about protecting his turf. A direct, confident, silent approach by a dog who’s got a high-held tail and forward-pricked ears can be a very bad sign. They want you GONE but are generally more bark than bite. These dogs often stop 5-10 feet from you, barking and growling – they often follow as you retreat but don’t fully approach (though they might nip at your heels as you move away). Barky, blustery charges by a dog who’s hackles are up and weight is shifted back is probably a bluff charge. They’re not likely to be truly dangerous to your dog. These dogs want to say hi – and might be overly rude about it. A loose, wiggly, bouncy dog probably just wants to say hi and isn’t a real threat to you (though your dog might disagree and find his approach rude, upsetting, or terrifying). The Bouncy Over-Greeter usually looks happy, relaxed, bouncy, and fast! Most chargingĭogs fall into one of three categories. Running haplessly behind calling out that he’s friendly?Įven more importantly, assess the dogs’ body language. The situation: is the dog tied down or behind a fence? Is there an owner The first thing to do in any of these scenarios is to assess Step One is Always The Same: Assess the Situation (Fast!) Through some scenarios to see what your options are when you and your dog areĬharged by a dog. ![]() To practice things that I’ve learned as a professional dog trainer. I’ve learned a lot through all of these encounters, putting Suffice it to say, we’ve been charged by a lot of off-leash dogs. While I spent 2018/19 traveling through 18 states and 8 countries, running with Barley was my main form of exercise (and my main hobby). I run marathons – and my dog Barley joins me on nearly every single training run.
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